12.18.2008

Coca Cola as Wine

It's been awhile, so here's a fun fact of the day...

The J.S. Pemberton Medicine Co. was formed in Atlanta circa 1885 to sell three principal products: a cough syrup and a hair dye that are both long forgotten, plus Pemberton's French Wine of Cola. In 1886, after Atlanta's Fulton County passed prohibition legislation, Pemberton devised a nonalcoholic version of his Wine of Cola, known today as Coca-Cola.

11.20.2008

Lunch Alert: Masterpiece Delicatessen

My friend Frankie alerted and turned me on to possibly one of the best little sammy shops in Denver: Masterpiece Delicatessen. Nestled at the top of the LoHi pedestrian bridge, this is not your New York-style deli. 

In a very airy and bright open space, Masterpiece Delicatessen seems to be run by a top-notch group of chefs who are constantly innovating and perfecting the deli sandwich. Other wares include crafty salads, rich soups, breakfast goodies, gourmet coffee, housemade desserts (yum), and overflowing plates of meats and cheeses. Whew! Top it off with a cooler full of artisan sodas and -- gasp! -- real rootbeer, and you've got a tasty lunch hour on your hands. 

Frankie and I went to Masterpiece Delicatessen for a quick Friday lunch; he's been raving about this place for a few months now. He ordered the braised beef brisket upon discovery that the Get-Right wasn't on the menu that day, but apparently there was no buyer's remorse. A thick serving of brisket spilled out the sides of a crusty baguette with crunchy pieces of Arugula (lettuce of choice in Denver, apparently) sticking out and sopping up some brisket-y goodness. Heaven on bread.

I chose only-slightly lighter fare: the Black Truffle Egg Salad Sandwich. Frankie isn't an egg salad fan, so I had all the tasty glory to myself that afternoon -- add in red onion, capers and romaine on toasty white bread and you have one egg sandwich that blows the rest of them out of the water. 

I now find myself making excuses to walk 15 blocks through Lodo to get my hands on other mouth-watering items, like the Roasted Vegetable Sandwich with zucchini, Piquillo peppers, caramelized onions, wild mushrooms, tomato tapenade, hummus and Manchego (wowza!). More reports to come, as I am on the hunt for that fabled Get-Right...

Masterpiece Delicatessen, 1575 Central St, Denver 303.561.deli

KCRW's Good Food

Love food so much you want to hear someone talk about it for a couple of hours? One of my favorite podcasts is Good Eats from KCRW in LA. Weekly journeys to the Santa Monica Farmer's Market are complimented by interviews with innovative chefs, culinary shop-owners, innovators and the like. With subjects ranging from how to cook fresh shell beans and sanddabs to the newest chocolate shop to hit Los Angeles featuring goat cheese chocolates to impassioned discussions about sustainable food products and local purchase habits. 

This is a seriously cool podcast to add to your repertoire, so check it out -- free knowledge about one of the best subjects I can think of!!

Check it out here!


Quote of the Day - Christopher Robin

"If there is ever a tomorrow when we are not together, there is something you must always remember: you are braver than you believe, stronger than you seem and smarter than you think . . . but most important of all, even if we are apart, i'll always be with you." - Christopher Robin to Winnie the Pooh

Not exactly food related, but a quote that touched me today.

11.17.2008

Quote of the Day

What is patriotism but the love of the food one ate as a child?
--Lin Yutang

Table 6

14  November, 2008

The setting: Table 6 restaurant in the Capitol Hill neighborhood of Downtown Denver. A small, intimate space with no more than 12 tables, a bright open kitchen, and a high bar area to enjoy pre-dinner drinks and start to dream of the meal to come. 

The table: the Doctor and I out for an evening of catching up, paired with great food and a snappy bottle of wine. Do we do it any other way?

The wine: In the mood for a Grenache/Syrah blend, the Doctor and I deferred to Sommelier Aaron Forman for his suggestion of an earthy wine to take the chill out of the cold night. A bottle of Acustic 06 Montsant, produced just south of Barcelona, gave us that earthy, woodsy bouquet we were craving, and continued to develop and open up throughout the meal for a really tasty bottle experience. 

The food: After much deliberation and negotiation (the foodie rules apply at this type of spot), the Doctor started with the Little Phillies and I settled on the Confit Fresh Bacon. As us food nerds typically do, plates were passed and "oohs" and "ahhhs" were the only syllables uttered for several minutes. 

The Little Phillies were reminiscent of home-cooked pot roast with just enough aged Provolone, grilled onions and Sriracha Aioli to whet the appetite for more. 

While the Little Philles were pretty smokin', the Confit Fresh Bacon may have been the winner for the evening -- served with bacon and date brittle and a chilled celery truffle curd, the 3x1x1" slab of pork belly sat next to a bed of arugula tossed in olive oil and lemon juice. The savory meat with sweet accoutrement incorporated with a touch of vague spiciness made for an excellent dish that night. 

Entrees were just as difficult to decide over, with yummy choices like Ahi Noodle Casserole with Orecchiette, Lobster Mushrooms, Idiazabal and Fried Shallot, or the delectable sounding Grilled Beef Hanging Tender served with Blue Cheese Bread Pudding, Spinach, Onion Ring and Red Wine Gastrique. 

In the end, the Doctor settled on the Chanterelle Chicken Pot Pie, a perfect example of gourmet comfort food ready to take you back to childhood. Only with better taste buds. I chose the Butternut Squash Ravioli, a sweet pasta dish complimented by a healthy dose of fennel, parmesan and parsley, and the dish took me back to New Orleans with its aromatic big flavors. 

Dessert was at the Doctor's recommendation: an order of Chocolate Beignets with Vanilla Creme Fraiche that literally burst with molten chocolate under a fork. A perfect treat to end the night. 

The verdict: I gave the Doctor quite a lot of grief throughout the night that the Denver dining scene was going to be a breeze for me; chains and Mexican joints were easy to conquer, and the city's people eat to live rather than the live to eat attitude inherent in New York and New Orleans. If Table 6 is a suggestion of meals to come, I cannot wait to discover all the fabulous, hidden food my new city has to offer. 

11.16.2008

Quote of the day -- Richard Wilbur

All that we do is touched with ocean, yet we remain on the shore of what we know.
-- Richard Wilbur

11.15.2008

Quote of the Day -- Luciano Pavarotti

One of the nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.
--Luciano Pavarotti + William Wright, Pavarotti, My Own Story

11.14.2008

New Zealand 2008 -- Cook N With Gas





Despite the odd name, Cook N With Gas turned out to be a foodie highlight of my trip. Nestled in downtown Christchurch (south island), this little gem turned out some spectacular dishes for JR and I. 

The interior was eclectic and meticulous all at once: the French bistro genre elaborated with vintage posters, awards, pictures, and general kitsch to create a visual jewelbox. 

Bottle of wine #1 was a Peregrine Saddleback Pinot Noir, 07 from the Central Otago, one of New Zealand's hot wine-growing regions right now. It turned out to be the perfect accoutrement to the meal that followed...

We started with prawn and whitebait fritters (whitebait is a delicacy in NZ -- it's a white sliver of a fish cooked in oil or baked with spices) served with a sweet relish that complimented the light, slightly sweet and subtle flavor of the fritters. 

My main dish was a seasonal vegetable tortellini, Italian interpreted by Kiwis. This dish was a treat: large green pastas filled with fresh spinach and pecorino romano cheese, surrounded by a bed of fresh, crisp asparagus, roast tomatoes, toasted walnuts and more delicious shaved pecorino romano -- yum yum yum! The dish also had hints of lemongrass and maybe even cardamom, but I was in foodie heaven because everything was balanced and complimentary, not a taste out of place. 

Dessert was a simple creme brulee topped with a clever "Gas" sugar sculpture. So rich we couldn't finish, especially not with the beverage we chose to accompany it...

The final component of our meal at Cook N With Gas was a bottle of dessert wine. Not just any dessert wine, mind you, but a late harvest riesling. Konrad & Co. Sigrum Noble #2 Riesling '04 was a super rich, tasty bottle, cut with Sauvignon Blanc. Even so, one glass was more than enough to cap of a fine meal. 

Quote of the Day -- Galileo

Wine is sunlight held together by water
--Galileo

11.11.2008

Quote of the Day -- Mitch Hedberg

I like rice. Rice is great if you're hungry and want 2000 of something.
-- Mitch Hedberg

Quote of the Day -- Miss Piggy

Never eat more than you can lift
-- Miss Piggy

Tasty Meal Archives: Bouchon, June 2008

The setting: a lovely late afternoon lunch following the Napa Valley Wine Auction at Bouchon in Yountville

The table: ever-fabulous and energetic glamorous jetsetters: Sheana Davis, Leslie Owen, and myself 

The food: foie-gras terrine and East Coast varietal oysters

The wine: a lovely crisp bottle of Pouilly-Fuisse

A crisp decor welcomed a crowd of tourists and locals alike as the knowledgeable waitstaff guided us through a leisurely afternoon of sipping and munching. 

An added bonus: Bouchon Bakery is right next door for dessert. A latte and two flourless chocolate cakes later... time to nap and dream of more Thomas Keller goodness!

10.21.2008

Quote of the Day -- Lord William Stonewall

A dinner lubricates business.
--Lord William Stonewall

Dominick's, West Hollywood, or, Diagnosed at 40. Part I

A Foreword: This entry will hopefully accomplish two things: first, a mini-review of the restaurant Dominick's in West Hollywood; and second, to outline a truly fantastic night full of hilarity and good friends. 

5 friends were invited to Dominick's to help Leslie ring in year 40, quite the monumentous occasion. On the back patio, bricked in and canopied by an olive tree, the only light source a fireplace and strings of globe lights traversing the space, we are tucked into a long wooden table and start the night off right. A bottle of bubbles appears, and the night begins. 

Leslie is my stylish cousin, a super-creative type who travels the world and lives between Los Angeles and St. Croix. She can be credited with spoiling me for all world travel, as my first trip to Europe was as her guest at age 17. We stayed at the Savoy, soaked up culture, went to the World Music Awards... you get the idea. Her party guests include folks from across the creative spectrum and I feel inspired from the moment I sit down with this group. 

I swipe the wine list to discover an Italian-focused yet nicely balanced selection to celebrate Leslie's big day. Wines are separated into "White" and "Red" but subcategories don't stray into the cliche grape names; instead, bottles were creatively organized by familiarity under titles like "Tried and True," "Your New Best Friend," and "Go Out on a Limb." 

We chose a Sirch Tocai-Fruilano "Albana" 2007 off the "Your New Best Friend" list. This is one of my favorite grapes, and it is becoming just a little easier to find with its popularity growing. The first bottle was dry and lightly effervescent with notes of lemon-verbena and pears. An instant crowd-pleaser! Bottle #2 was from the 2006 vintage, and had vanilla undertones with a very slight tang on the palette. This, too, went over well with our group, so a third bottle (of the 2006) was requested and came sailing out with smiles. 

And then there was food...

10.07.2008

New Orleans Needs Ideas!

New Orleans holds a special spot in my heart as the birthplace of my personal and professional passions. Food, wine, restaurants, and entertaining are a way of life in that city, and a little storm a few years ago still threatens the city I and many others hold dear.
IdeaVillage is a group of passionate and creative entrepreneurs in New Orleans dedicated to bringing the city back to its prominence and then some. They recently unveiled a program asking entrepreneurs for ideas to keep young professionals in the city, offering $100,000 to the winner. 
Long has it been a problem for New Orleans that its young, educated people leave the city for opportunities in Houston, Dallas, Chicago, and other places around the country. IdeaVillage believes the trend can change. 
See their outstanding YouTube video after the jump for an outline of their program, and pass the word along to anyone who may have that great idea!

10.06.2008

Quote of the Day -- Anthelme Brillat Savarin

A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine. 
--Anthelme Brillat Savarin

Return from the Southern Hemisphere

I have returned from my little jaunt down to New Zealand, so sorry there weren't many (any) posts while I was away; sitting down at a computer just didn't seem right in such an amazing country. 
I will write about my trip and its stellar food and wine experiences once I have pictures. J and I shared a camera (I only have a film, not so good for international travel), so I am waiting patiently for what I hope turns out to be great shots of the NZ landscape. 

9.22.2008

Where in the World (is the Lonely Anchovy)?

Good afternoon, food nerds and friends (or morning, depending where you are on the globe)!

I am excited to report that the next two weeks of scintillating Lonely Anchovy entries will be coming to you from the diverse and fascinating country of New Zealand. 13 days, 7 cities (no checked bags) and lots of good munchies and sips to look forward to.

I am currently sitting in Auckland at the Hilton on the Wharf, peering out onto a glassy, cold bay and a grey-blue sky, breathing in some of the loveliest sea air I've found in awhile.

Stay tuned for all the hijicks, big and small...

9.20.2008

Restaurant Alert: Father's Office, Santa Monica

Father's Office on Montana Avenue in Santa Monica reminds me quite a bit of the Delachaise in New Orleans. Just a lot more clean. And smoke-less. 

You can't miss this spot: the exterior roof is topped like a birthday cake with a 60s era neon sign complete with an arrow pointing to the entrance. Walk in to a narrow, wood paneled room lined with low tables filled with chattering Los Angelenos, sipping on obscure and tasty beers and nibbling on organic yum yums from the kitchen. Hip but not overdone tunes jammed in the background, and people stood around the L-shaped bar under chalkboard menus, eagerly weighing their options of a Bruery Black Orchard Ale versus a Bear Republic Racer 5 IPA. Of course they have a wine selection, but the real treasure at Father's Office is the beers. Their motto, in fact, is Beer Makes You Strong. 

The Big and Small plates offer something for almost every palate. Picky eaters beware though; the menu specifically states that no substitutions, modifications, alterations or deletions will be indulged. Yes. Really. Sobrasoda come out with heaps of manchego alongside plates of white anchovies (lonely no more!) and spicy lamb skewers. The organic beet salad burst with complementary ingredients, including a healthy serving of Cabrales Blue cheese and a kickin' Jerez vinaigrette. 

The most talked-about dish on the menu is The Office Burger. Looking around at tables filled with slim and pretty men and women (this is LA), you might not expect to see too many plates of ground beef and a carb-load. Au contraire, my friends. On nearly every table sat a happy burger, and McDonald's this was not: on a thick (French bread?) bun with crunchy bits of Arugula sticking out from every angle, a thick patty sat medium rare on the inside and covered in caramelized onions, delightful bits of bacon, and nibbles of Gruyere and Maytag Blue. Is my envy showing through the computer screen yet?

Cannot wait to find myself in LA again, if only to nibble on that Burger. Yum yum yum. 

9.18.2008

Foodie Quote of the Day

Sharing food with another human being is an intimate act that should not be indulged in lightly.
~M.F.K. Fisher

Foodie Quote of the Day

If all of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world.
~J.R.R. Tolkien (1892 - 1973)

9.17.2008

Kitschy New Invention: ToastaBags!

Yet another reason I love DailyCandy: they have turned me on to a product that might single-handedly change the way we make a classic American staple -- the grilled cheese sandwich.

ToastaBags are truly for the lazy gourmet. This little pocket of love holds your bread slices, cheese in between, and slips them effortlessly into an upright toaster for an un-messy fromage-laden treat. Oh, the possibilities of all the grilled cheese sammies I could make! Havarti, manchego, aged cheddar -- yum yum yum!!

Image from DailyCandy

Foodie Quote of the Day

If junk food is the devil, then a sweet orange is as scripture.  
~Audrey Foris

New Useful Website Alert: RegionalBest.com

Finding good regional produce is difficult in Southern California, certainly much for difficult than in Northern California. I am well aware that this may sound insane, that the Central Valley is just north of us. The thing is, these crops are meant to sustain a good percentage of the food for the entire population of the United States, i.e., much of it is "treated" to keep the apples and cucumbers shiny and whole upon arrival in Wichita. Locavores have a pretty difficult time down here.

Typical grocery stores here in Orange County don't have any higher quality or fresher product than a store in a non-agricultural area. There are a few exceptions, including Farm to Market in San Juan Capistrano, but on the whole, very few people get access to great regional food stuffs. 

RegionalBest.com is a cool new site I've discovered that organized its wares not only by type of product (cheeses, grains, seafood, etc.) but it breaks offerings down by region for good local feast. Happy hunting for good regional items!!

Image from RegionalBest.com

9.15.2008

Quote of the Day

You don't have to cook fancy or complicated masterpieces - just good food from fresh ingredients
-Julia Child (1912 - 2004)

9.14.2008

Fish Goes Eco-Conscious

MSN recently did an article on piscine choices that are eco-friendly. Many people may want to purchase and support environmentally friendly fish, but have a tough (if a little fishy) time finding fish that meets those confines. 

This article from MSN offers some good material for anyone looking to green up. Many of these may not be the most popular little fishies, but I'm excited to expand my palate, and I hope you might do the same!

Your Daily Yum Yum: Banana Bread

 I am the first to admit that while my cooking skills may be formidable, I rarely use them for the good of mankind (or my tummy). I learned through osmosis while at Commander's Palace; Tory McPhail was working on his fabulous new book, "Commander's Wild Side" and I did my duty as proofer, assistant stylist and (my favorite part) taster.

Along the lines of my earlier post (half of the world's food supply is wasted every year), I decided to make lemonade out of lemons. Rather, I made banana bread out of overripe bananas. A quick search on Food and Wine (my favorite monthly of mine) found this recipe from Lisa Ritter, which turned out just as they claimed: crispy on the outside, moist on the inside. Really scrumptious, if I do say so myself. 

Old-Fashioned Banana Bread

  • make ahead MAKE-AHEAD
  • Vegetarian VEGETARIAN
ACTIVE TIME: 20 MIN 
TOTAL TIME: 1 HR 30 MIN 
ONE 9-BY-5-INCH LOAF
This extraordinarily simple and tasty banana bread (with a moist center and crispy crust) is a Ritter family heirloom. “The recipe has been in our family for generations,” Lisa Ritter says.
INGREDIENTS
  • Unsalted butter
  • 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • Pinch of salt
  • 2 large eggs, beaten
  • 1/2 cup canola oil
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 large, very ripe bananas, mashed
  • Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
DIRECTIONS
  1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter and flour a 9-by-5-inch metal loaf pan. In a medium bowl, whisk the 1 1/4 cups of flour with the baking soda and salt. In another bowl, whisk the eggs with the oil, sugar and mashed bananas. Stir the banana mixture into the dry ingredients.
  2. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake in the center of the oven for about 50 minutes, until the bread is golden and a toothpick inserted into the center of the loaf comes out clean. Transfer the pan to a rack and let cool for 15 minutes, then turn the bread out onto the rack and let cool completely. Dust the top with confectioners’ sugar, cut into slices and serve.

MAKE AHEAD The bread can be wrapped in plastic and refrigerated for up to 1 week.

9.13.2008

Brennan's of Houston Burns to the Ground

I started my professional career at Commander's Palace, a grand-dame restaurant in New Orleans owned and operated by the Brennan family. While there, I became well-acquainted with the family and deeply involved with each restaurant the group owned. I still consider Ti Martin and Lally Brennan as the two women who helped shape me into who I am today.
I was surprised and saddened this morning to learn that Brennan's of Houston, their beautiful downtown Houston restaurant, burned to the ground early this morning in the throes of Hurricane Ike. That family has already dealt with so much tragedy; Commander's Palace was closed for 13 months after Hurricane Katrina, and the renovation of it and the city of New Orleans was physically, mentally and emotionally exhausting.
I'm not sure what path the Brennan's will take with the Houston location, but it will no doubt be an exacting one. 

Brennan's Restaurant, revered Midtown landmark, destroyed by fire

By BRADLEY OLSON AND MIKE TOLSON
Copyright 2008 Houston Chronicle

Sept. 13, 2008, 5:24AM

Three people were severely injured and a Houston culinary landmark was left in ashes early Saturday by a fire that erupted as Hurricane Ike began to barrel into town.

Brennan's Restaurant, a Midtown institution famous for its turtle soup and bananas foster and a time-honored eatery among local society, was ruined by the blaze. A 45-year-old man and his 4-year-old daughter, along with a third man who was not related to them, were taking refuge from the storm inside the brick structure.

The father and daughter were taken to Memorial Hermann-Texas Medical Center with burn injuries, Assistant Fire Chief Omero Longoria said. Both were listed in critical condition early today, a hospital spokesperson said. The other man was taken to Ben Taub General Hospital, where he is listed in fair condition.

The cause of the fire and whether it is connected to the storm was not yet known.

Firefighters struggled in vain for hours to contain the fire, which was whipped by ever gusting winds that blew from all directions. With no hope for the restaurant, fire officials concentrated on keeping the fire from reaching nearby buildings. An old two-story apartment building sits directly across from the restaurant.

The task of containment grew even more daunting as the winds increased. Dangerous debris — felled trees and limbs, unhinged stoplights, awnings, road signs, shopping carts — skittered through the streets, with nearby taller buildings funneling gusts directly toward the flames.

The fire was reported around midnight, and at 1 a.m. flames which darting skyward, hardly diminished by a stream of water from a firehose. But by 2:30 a.m., all that could be viewed from a few blocks away — as a legion of emergency vehicles blocked roads around the restaurant — was an orange glow.

Reached on his cellular phone, Alex Brennan-Martin, Brennan's co-owner and part of a family of famed New Orleans restaurateurs, declined to comment, apparently too emotional to speak.

Fire officials said personnel would continue their efforts as long as conditions were safe, though remaining in a 'defensive' posture' Longoria said, meaning they were not inside the building.

In 2005, Houston Chronicle restaurant reviewer Alison Cook included a personal note that rang true with many who grew up with Brennan's as a touchstone for a fancy night out.

'I have a long and mostly happy history with this restaurant, which opened in the former Junior League building in 1967,' Cook wrote. 'Through my post-college jobs, Brennan's was a place where I got comfortable with fine dining, where I discovered the joys of Meursault wines, learned to eat grillade and grits, and decided that 'brunch' was a word to be welcomed instead of feared.

'I have a vivid memory,' Cook went on, 'of sitting with my college-age sister at a small table against the back wall of the stately main dining room, eating turtle soup and mustardy steak Diane — a period piece long since banished from the menu — that seemed absolutely thrilling. Our waiter, who doted on us, knew perfectly well we couldn't afford it. He didn't care. We were queens for an evening, and the feeling of welcome and occasion that he exuded — and which endures — has always been one of my favorite things about this restaurant.'

Although Cook sadly noted what she perceived as a later demise in its offerings, she was happy to report that it had bounced back with new Chef Randy Evans, who has headed the kitchen since 2003.

'Brennan's food these days has a profound, Southern soulfulness to it,' she wrote.

The restaurant had a previous brush with hurricane disaster, albeit indirectly. When Katrina pounded New Orleans in 2005, much of the staff of Commander's Palace, which is owned by the Brennan family, came to work temporarily at the Houston outpost.

Brennan-Martin, then head of the local chapter of the Council of Independent Restaurants, also hosted fundraisers for Katrina victims and led efforts to find work for displaced restaurant employees.

Brennan's traces its history to a New Orleans restaurant of the same name opened in 1946 by Owen Edward Brennan. The son of a local shipyard worker, Brennan had already staked a claim on the local landscape when he acquired the Old Absinthe House on Bourbon Street three years earlier.

The Absinthe House was built in 1798 and was known to be pirate Jean Lafitte's secret hangout, and after buying it, Brennan staged lifelike mannequins of the notorious Lafitte and Andrew Jackson in what he called the 'Secret Room' — the room in which a pact was supposedly made to assist in New Orleans' defense against the British at the Battle of New Orleans.

Brennan became one of the French Quarter's best known hosts at 'the oldest saloon in America,' with pianist Fats Pichon adding to its appeal with tunes ranging from Bach to boogie. But he didn't made his mark in the culinary community until he opened Owen Brennan's French & Creole Restaurant across the street.

After a dispute over his lease a few years later, Brennan moved the restaurant to a new location on Royal Street. However, Brennan died shortly before the official opening in 1956. It fell to one of his sisters, Ella, to manage the new operation, which became more successful than the old.

As time passed, Ella, who is Brennan-Martin's mother, expanded operations, first by acquiring a restaurant in Biloxi, Miss., and then moving on to Houston, Dallas and a New Orleans suburb. Brennan's Restaurant of Houston, as it was formally known, opened in 1967. Jimmy Brennan, one of Owen's sons, moved to Houston to manage the eatery. Jimmy had been formally trained in the restaurant business at École Hôtelière de la S.S.H. in Lausanne, Switzerland.

Ensuing disputes over money, the quality of the restaurants and more ambitious expansion plans brought the family and the restaurant group to the brink of disaster before a settlement was reached. The original Brennan family — Owen's three sons — now operates only the New Orleans restaurant bearing its name and Commander's Palace, an established restaurant it acquired in 1969.

Chronicle writers Cindy George and Shelby Hodge contributed.

 mike.tolson@chron.com

bradley.olson@chron.com

9.11.2008

Quote of the Day

My favorite animal is steak
~Fran Lebowitz 

9.10.2008

Quote of the Day

After all the trouble you go to, you get about as much actual "food" out of eating an artichoke as you would from licking 30 or 40 postage stamps.  
~Miss Piggy

9.08.2008

Quote of the Day

High-tech tomatoes.  Mysterious milk.  Supersquash.  Are we supposed to eat this stuff?  Or is it going to eat us? 
~Annita Manning

In-N-Out makes me happy

I had the distinct pleasure of taking a tasty detour to the only fast food I will ever consider, California's own In-N-Out Burger.
If you have ever eaten at In-N-Out Burger, you know that there are few burgers that can substitute this dietary staple. Fresh produce, meat and dairy make for a tasty if indulgent meal I only spring for every once in awhile. 
My friend Tom and I stopped in for a yummy treat last week and ordered the works: cheeseburgers with onions, fresh cut french fries and chocolate milkshakes. 
Americana at its finest. Yum yum yum!

Slow Food Nation in San Francisco

Sunday, Day 4 of my Sonoma Showcase Weekend and Slow Food Nation Tour was devoted to a day at Slow Food Nation in San Francisco at the Fort Mason Center. 
My intrepid tour guide and rock star cheesemaker friend Sheana Davis drove us into the city around 8:00 am to get prime parking (exit strategy in place). We met a new friend Susan Roth for early breakfast at Greens Restaurant -- they made me a truly de
licious and real Chai tea that hit that early morning hankering for me. 
We sauntered in to the Slow Food Nation staging area in the beautiful Fort Mason on the Marina. Slow Food Nation is meant to the birth of a broad and inclusive food movement to build an American system that is sustainable, just and delicious.
Sheana's cheese Delice de la Vallee was on showcase in the Cheese section of the event among 60 other artisanal fromage varieties. Sheana, with the help of Susan, offered 5000 samples of her cheese to people walking through the cheese section. Excited delights of 'Yum!" and "Wow, what is that goodness?!" 
       
Sheana's friends from Cheese School of San Francisco stopped by and the picture below is by far my favorite: the baby, eating cheese and looking as happy as a mini clam. So cute!

Sonoma Showcase Weekend -- Saturday August 30

The cheese and the weekend has finally digested -- what a time I had in Sonoma over Labor Day weekend, drinking the best beers and wines in the country and sampling some of the best food goodies of my life. 

MacMurray Ranch was the scene of the Sonoma Showcase. This beautiful ranch is set about 15 minutes west of the town of Healdsburg. Driving down the winding road between lush vineyards and simple homesteads, I felt transported back in time; this scene does not exist in mainstream America anymore. MacMurray Ranch was purchased by Hollywood actor Fred MacMurray in 1941, and sold to the Gallo family many years later. They have kept the ranch on it's original charming state, and you couldn't have asked for a more beautiful setting for the Sonoma Showcase Weekend. 

Saturday, August 30th started out as a very early morning; Sheana and I had to arrive at MacMurray Ranch sometime around 7:00am. Sheana's assistant Alexis arrived around 9:30 to serve 1000s of samples of fresh Sonoma cheeses to the happy attendees. 

Alexis manned the Epicurean Connection table in the center of the Sonoma tent. She served Delice de la Vallee to 1500 cheery folks on lovely fresh bread topped with a drizzle of saba, a super yummy concoction imported into the States made of concentrated, reduced grape juice. Wow. The Delice de la Vallee certainly pops on its own, and the saba adds that extra zing. The other cheese on the table was Franklin's Teleme, a rich complement to the Delice, indeed. The table was decorated with Mason jars full of culinary harvest items and even Mardi Gras beads, a tribute to New Orleans for the careful observers. 

9.05.2008

Quote of the Day

You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline - it helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer.

-- Frank Zappa

Banksy Strikes New Orleans



This post isn't really related to food; rather, it is an image of graffiti by Banksy in New Orleans. 
See more here

Cheese School of San Francisco


I had the delight and pleasure of accompanying my friend Sheana Davis to the Cheese School of San Francisco on Friday, August 29 to serve her amazing Delice de la Vallee and mingle with fabulous friends from San Francisco. A fantastic and energized crowd of 200 attended the soiree -- from giddy, civilian foodies to professional fromage gurus -- all tucked nicely into the Cheese School of SF's cozy space in North Beach. 

Sheana's Delice de la Vallee was one of 6 cheeses served that evening to a sold-out crowd, and we ran into a few folks who knew Sheana from her classes there. Sheana teaches at Cheese School SF about 4 times a year, and from what I gather has quite the fan base! Our new foodie friend Matt even made it a point to come meet us at Slow Food later in the weekend. We hope to see you next time too!


Sonoma Wine Country Weekend and Slow Food Nation

Or, Two Gals in a Suburu.

I didn't make this post earlier in the week because there was so much commotion about New Orleans. Thankfully, that storm has passed and I can relax again. 

I spent this past extended weekend up in Sonoma County and San Francisco with my good friend and ally Sheana Davis. Sheana is quickly becoming the hottest new cheesemaker on the scene, and signed up for all the glorious foodie madness for the weekend. 

Sonoma Wine Country Weekend, a showcase of sorts that celebrates the best the county has to offer, and Slow Food Nation, a conglomeration of slow products from around the country, were scheduled for the same weekend, causing many small producers in Sonoma County to choose between the two. Not so for Sheana Davis and her intrepid sidekick Josie!

We shuttled between Sonoma and San Francisco many times in those 4 days, and what an adventure we had!  I'll give you the quick overview here, because each event deserves an entry of it's own. 

We delivered wine and cheese to the Cheese School of San Francisco for Friday evening's artisanal cheese showcase, we shuttled out to Healdsburg to MacMurray Ranch (a beautiful property owned by Gina Gallo -- wow), served 1000s of portions of Delice de la Vallee at the Sonoma County Showcase, served even more 1000s of portions of Delice de la Vallee at Slow Food Nation in Fort Mason, served a delightful cheese course as the coup-de-gras of the Sonoma County Wine Auction, met new friends, drank fabulous wines, worried over New Orleans and our friends who stayed, and generally had a spectacular time. 

MFK Fisher, at home in Sonoma

The New York Times just published a nice little article on MFK Fisher's final home in Sonoma, and after spending an amazing weekend there, I cannot imagine any other place more fitting. 

Read the article here for a little treat. 

8.25.2008

Houston Chronicle reports on America's food supply

This article from the Houston Chronicle is an awesome example of mainstream media finally paying attention to the issue of our ever-widening chain of food supply. Great read. 

8.24.2008

Half of all food wasted post-production

Reports now say that half of all food is wasted post-production. Among the main culprits of this ugly fact are Great Britain ($40bn wasted per year) and the United States (one third of all food thrown away in this county per year). Living in America, I think we often take advantage of the immediate and varied access to high quality food and water; most people around the world do not have that same luxury. 

I am no saint when it comes to food consumption. I can think of so many instances where I let something go to waste in the fridge or don't finish my plate at a restaurant, and the thought of exactly how much food I have personally wasted is slightly sickening. There is no excuse for food left in the fridge -- what a clumsy error! My biggest sin: the cartons of cream-on-top yogurt that get shoved to the back of the fridge and forgotten until way past the expiration date. Such a waste. 

Yet another case in point: I had lunch at Ruby's Diner, a SoCal favorite, on Friday with a girlfriend. I ordered the veggie tacos and she ordered a salad with chicken -- standard fare at Ruby's. The plates arrive, and our eyes go round: my two little tacos are stuffed to the brim and even spilling out, and Rachelle's salad bowl is a half foot tall and packed with food. Neither of us can finish, and are forced to send a half the salad back as well as an unfinished taco.

I try not to blame myself for not finishing food at restaurants. I think portions have increased exponentially at American restaurants, resulting in our cultural obesity epidemic. I'm certainly not talking about foodie restaurants such as the French Laundry or my favorite taco stand in Laguna Beach, but the places a vast majority of middle America frequent with veracity. Applebee's, Outback Steakhouse, Panera, and steakhouses like Ruth's Chris and Morton's that serve giant portions that often go unfinished. It's a chicken-and-egg dilemma: would restaurants be serving such large portions if consumers didn't demand them? Would consumers be so obese if not offered gigantic portions? 

Food for thought today.