Sustainable Food Resource

There are two great food organizations in the US today that provide resources to consumers and outlets for producers of sustainable products. Slow Food USA and Slow Food Nation are great resources for anyone interested in foods produced in a sustainable method and locally sourced. 

I've just come across a great article on the Slow Food USA blog. Sustainable fishing has been a topic at my dinner table lately, as I am living in Southern California at the moment. The incidence of shark sightings and attacks has risen this year, and one argument is that their natural food source, fish like tuna, is dwindling in population. Check out this article below for more information on something foodies cannot turn their backs on. 

http://www.slowfoodblog.org/2008/06/sourcing-sustainable-seafood/ 

A Saturday in New Orleans, Part III: Lola’s

I was recently invited to join a good friend, TVO, at Lola’s in New Orleans. This small Spanish gem is tucked into a large house on Esplanade Avenue in Mid-City. 

Now I especially love eating in New Orleans. There are so many fantastic restaurants (if you avoid tourist drab) in such a small metropolitan area; that combined with a smaller post-Katrina population and tourists creates a level of competition that drives out all bad meals. If you are in or soon visiting New Orleans, check out local food critic Tom Fitzmorris’ www.nomenu.com for a comprehensive list of what restaurants are open, complete with a pretty trusty rating system. 

The specialty at Lola’s is the paella. This thick rice dish is one of my favorites and so hard to find in the states, so I was pretty excited to see it as the focal point in the menu. Lola’s paella is made in the traditional fashion in their fabulous open-air kitchen, and the whole dining room smells of saffron and rich stocks. 

We started with a traditional ceviche and a bottle of Septima Malbec. Each restaurant makes their ceviche differently, and Lola’s was not a disappointment. It had a super crisp aroma of citrus and fresh fish, and an equally beguiling flavor. Chunks of whitefish, avocado, shrimp, tomatoes, red onion and peppers all marinated in lime juice. Yum yum, indeed. 

The paella came out after some time (paella is rather time intensive). My friend had ordered the meat variety (beef, chicken, sausage) while I had chosen the seafood variety. Both were steaming hot and served in the traditional paella skillet. 

The saffron flavor in each was delicate and subtle -- a little saffron goes a long way. The rice was fluffy and juicy and burst with flavor. Baby octopus sprinkled in with calamari rings, scallops, hunks of whitefish, shrimp, lobster. I felt like I had died and gone to heaven. 

We closed Lola’s down that night. The combination of great wine, tantalizing food, snappy conversation, and steamy temperatures make dining in New Orleans a real treat. I truly suggest a trip just for the food. 

A Saturday in New Orleans, Part II: Galatoire's

I descended upon my mother’s brunch party at Galatoire’s (209 Bourbon Street, New Orleans LA 70130, 504.525.2021) after a rambling brunch of my own. For New Orleans and Louisiana locals, few restaurants conjure up the memories from and reaction to a mention of a grand old restaurant. Galatoire’s has been a staple in that town for well over 100 years, and for good reason.

The cuisine is classic New Orleans, the wine list and cocktails flow like water, and a Friday lunch crowd is about the most fun you are going to get in this life. All of New Orleans seems to turn out for this weekly occasion. Young and old, professional and retired, ladies and gentlemen -- you will find just about anyone in that dining room.

The main room is simple and old-world, with simple tiled floors and classic framed mirrors on the walls. Coat hooks line the room along each mirror frame, just in case the gentleman gets a little warm after his Sazerac. Ah yes -- coats are required for gentleman. At dinner and at lunch. Gotta love the old-world charm of this city. 

Our server that day is, like always, Harold. Harold has been a server at Galatoire’s for several decades now -- since the 60s. He has been my parents’, grandparents’ and extended families server for nearly 50 years. That’s just how magical Galatoire’s can be: generations of people come back year after year, requesting the same family server who remembers your Aunt Christine when she was a young girl, and remembers that you like a little extra cloves in your Cafe Brulot. 

By the time I got to them, the entrees had been cleared and spirits were high. I joined at the table my mother and three of her siblings. This bunch knows how to have fun -- Cafe Brulot was on its way! Harold brought over the concoction, and I found a great recipe with great backstory from Chef John Folse in case you want to make this cocktail at home. Yum yum!

-------------------

PREP TIME:15 Minutes
SERVES: 6-8

COMMENT:
In New Orleans, Cafe Brulot is often served. Brulot in French means spicy or burned with sugar. The recipe for this famous blending of dark roasted Creole coffee with cognac or brandy and vermouth, spiced with cinnamon and orange peel is attributed to Dominique Youx, top lieutenant to the pirate, Jean Lafitte.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lemon

• 1 orange

• 6 whole cloves

• 2 small cinnamon sticks

• 1 1/2 ounces triple sec

• 1 ounce brandy

• 1 1/2 cups cafe noir

METHOD:
Every household in early New Orleans had its brulot bowl on the buffet. A brulot bowl is any silver or copper bowl that can be heated with sterno or candle flames from the bottom. Over your brulot bowl, peel lemon in one continuous motion so that the peel is a long spiral. Any juice from the lemon should fall directly into the bowl. Peel orange in the same fashion. Once peeled, insert cloves into the orange and lemon peels at one inch intervals. Into the brulot bowl, place cinnamon stick, triple sec and brandy. Place a sterno or candle under the bowl and bring the liquid to a slight simmer, stirring constantly. Once the liquor is simmering, carefully ignite using a kitchen match. A ribbon of golden blue flame may be achieved by ladling the liquors into the air above the bowl. While the liquor is flaming, hold the lemon and orange peels in the heat to "cook out" the flavor. Slowly add hot coffee, pouring around the edges of the bowl so that the sizzling sound may be heard. Continue stirring until flame dies out. Squeeze a small amount of orange and lemon juice into the bowl to naturally sweeten the coffee. Ladle hot brulot into hot demi-tasse cups.

-------------------

http://www.jfolse.com/recipes/beverages/bev09.htm 

The spicy taste combined with intense aromatics and a bit of liqueur in that hot coffee make your senses go wild. 

Just as the Brulot based was sipped dry and the check was payed, good old Mother Nature descended upon New Orleans and we found it to be rather wet and stormy outside. So what do we do? Order another round, of course!

B&B for my mother and siblings, champagne for me (gotta keep with routine, you know? We reminisced about great food memories and great family stories, then mused over the future and current politics. All in all, a very stimulating hour or so. And look at that, the sun came out! Time to move along, best to take a stroll around the Quarter before getting into much more trouble, right?

Oh, the places we’ll go...

A Saturday in New Orleans, Part I: Dante's Kitchen

I had agreed (in a less than ideal state) to meet a few friends at Dante’s Kitchen (736 Dante Street, New Orleans LA 70118, 504.861.3121) this past Saturday morning for a little hair-of-the-dog brunch. Upon arriving at 11:30 a.m., I was pleased to discover that this was a shades meal: every person at the table had sunglasses on. Indoors.

To allow my body to slowly recover, I ordered a mimosa -- this is New Orleans after all. Our server informed me that the mimosa special of the day (!) was watermelon. Yum yum yum yum yum. 

My concoction arrived in a bright pink fashion: textured, but no yucky pulp to constrict the flow of champagne. The liquid was refreshing in every sense of the word: not too sweet and just enough bubbles. I was in brunch heaven!!

The table was composed of a lovely group of New Orleans friends intent on keeping the previous nights’ festivities rolling. Crimrose bloody marys packed with little snacks and screwdrivers that packed a punch crowded our table of friends. 

After a quick scan of the menu -- roasted duck hash cake, bread pudding french toast, pancakes, griddle, duck debris & poached eggs, i.e. foodie paradise! -- I settled on a sensible veggie omelet. But this is no egg white and cheddar cheese dish. Chef Eman’s version of this “light” classic was anything but: Gruyere cheese, slow-roasted Creole tomatoes, shiitake mushrooms and a dainty side of fruit to ease the guilt. Ha!

I happily sipped on watermelon mimosa #2 as I nibbled on my breakfast delight, unaware of the glorious foodie day (and night) ahead of me...

Loa, New Orleans

I’ve always been fond of Loa in New Orleans. The hotel bar for the smashing International House Hotel, they have always taken particular pride in their cocktails and wine selection.

I met my friend Josh in the bar for a cocktail and came upon a rosé that looked like it had panache. Hendry Rosé, I believe it was an 06. If you happen to come across this wine, take the time to try it. Perfect for summer, it has a strawberry and cherry bouquet and has a super smooth finish that makes sipping a pleasure.   

Your Daily Yum Yum: Quimet y Quimet

I recently went on a very quick jaunt to Barcelona, Spain with a group of great friends. Mary, Helena, Rita and I spent 4 days relaxing, eating, cocktailing, and soaking up all the wonderful offerings of this Spanish Mediterranean city. 

Having had a little notice of this trip (it served as Helena’s 30th birthday party), I promptly set out to learn as much as possible about the city and its culinary prowess. Imagine my delight upon discovering that Barcelona claimed some of the best tapas in Spain. I am not surprised by this claim; the city sits at the edge of the Western Mediterranean and has thousands of years of history to draw upon. 

Barcelona research started with a review through my collection of back-dated Food + Wine magazines. I love Food + Wine for this reason; so many articles and little tidbits covering such a wide array of topics and fascinating, expert advice for lands yet unvisited. 

I quickly had my heart set on finding Quimet y Quimet, a tiny tapas bar in a hillside neighborhood in Barcelona best reached by taxi. I excitedly piled the girls into a little taxi (everything is smaller in Europe -- I love it) and set off towards adventure. 

From the Hotel Majestic in the heart of Barcelona, we arrived at Quimet y Quimet quickly. A tiny shop in a working class neighborhood, locals lined the walls and the sidewalk outside, engrossed in rapid conversations in espanol, sipping cava, a yummie Spanish sparkling wine. 

The shop walls were lined with Spanish wines and ales, preserved and pickled delicacies (my favorite white anchovy was not lonely here), oils and vinegars -- it was a foodie mecca! To my delight, we settled into a standing table just next to the bar, where shiny red peppers, rich manchego cheeses, spicy sausages and toasted breads sat ready for my enjoyment. 

A kindly older gentleman was ponied up at the bar next to us, enjoying his cava and chatting with the staff. He was clearly a local and a regular to Quimet y Quimet, and my first thought was, jackpot! Especially in non-English speaking countries, this type of patron can become your best friend during the meal. He can offer off-the-menu suggestions that you could have never known about and pick out an obscure wine or ale to wash down the meal if you offer a smile and friendly conversation. 

This gentleman did not speak English, but my limited Spanish sufficed to communicate all my wants and desires from Quimet y Quimet. He ordered a lovely array for the four American girls in the shop that day, all kinds of cured meats, cheeses, vegetables, pate, a basket of breads, and cava all around.

If you have the opportunity to visit the lovely city of Barcelona, I recommend seeking out Quimet y Quimet. It may be a little off the beaten track, and you may have to try foods outside your comfort zone, but that’s the life of a foodie, right?

Cheers,

Josie

MFK Fisher, the beginnings

Christian Science Monitor delivered a short and sweet article about this female foodie. Enjoy!

A Little Ridiculous

I was giggling to myself last night as I browsed the June 30 Wine Spectator, and came upon a pretty funny article, "The Critical Half-Inch" by Matt Kramer about becoming a "wine geek" and taking oneself too seriously. 

Lo and behold, I came across another article today out of the Houston Chronicle, "My beer's too hot, my wine's too cold, my Coke is just right" devoted to the exact perfect temperature our beverages should be served at. 

These articles serve as reminders to me that while temperature is certainly important, there is a tipping point from attention to detail across the line to obsessiveness. Enjoy wine -- that's what it is there for!!

Your Daily Yum Yum: Maximo’s Italian Grill, New Orleans

I had the opportunity and pleasure of visiting Maximo’s Italian Grill in New Orleans last week, and thought it might be fun to sit at the kitchen bar. 

A long, cool sheet of granite lines the edge of the open grilling kitchen, wafting the smells of garlic and tomatoes to my eager palate. Lovely fillets of fish and breaded veal cutlets graced the shallow pans, quietly sizzling under the supervision of a rather calm kitchen staff. 

I had seen the bright green glimmer of grilled asparagus on the way in, and settled on that for the first course. Super thick stalks arrived in front of me, gleaming with a simple coating of olive oil, lemon, salt and pepper -- my favorite combination of flavors. 

I stole a look at my neighbor’s plate for inspiration on my main course: the grilled scallops appetizer. Yum, yum, yum, yum, yum. Two huge, moist diver scallops set on a bed of baby greens just melted in my mouth. No knife necessary, these shellfish cut with my fork edge and had a delicate and fresh flavor. The thought of ordering seconds crossed my mind... no, must save room for the next amazing meal. That’s always around the corner in New Orleans. 

The Lonely Anchovy

The anchovy is a food that would divide the world: those who swear by the little fish, and those who detest its very existence. 

A flavor-packed tiny morsel, an anchovy tastes of the sea in all its glory. Salty, a tinge of brine on the tongue -- this is truly an acquired taste. Anchovies often accompany caesar salads, antipasto plates, pastas and other Mediterranean salads, and can be found at the most authentic tapas bars, sitting lightly on a toast point with a bit of cheese or oil.

I am a fan of the anchovy, and find particular sadness when the Lonely Anchovy manifests at a meal. The Lonely Anchovy is the sad little fishie I imagine in the kitchen of a fine restaurant, lonely because a non-believer in the dining room has requested anchovies not touch his caesar salad. Scores of anchovies must go unopened in kitchens, just waiting for the wandering anchovy lover to grace the restaurant. 

My good friend Tory McPhail uses white anchovies (a particularly tasty variety) in his Parmesan Crusted Oyster Salad at Commander’s Palace. In fact, it was this salad that turned me on to the amazing little fish. I admit it... I was a non-believer in my non-foodie days. Oh, the tragedy of all the Lonely Anchovies I created in my ignorance!  

Imagine this lovely meal: fresh romaine lettuce, crispy fried oysters, roasted red peppers, generous slices of Roma tomatoes, olives, sea salt + cracked pepper, Parmesan cheese, and tiny little white anchovies gracing the plate, drizzled in a creamy buttermilk dressing. This recipe is included in Tory’s new book, and I had the pleasure of being present during the food styling and photography for this dish. 

I promise, I do not own anchovy stock, but I feel as though this little delight gets a bad rap among non-foodies and foodies alike. Won’t you join me in the campaign against the Lonely Anchovy?

Your Daily Yum Yum: The Year of Eating Dangerously

I recently finished a book right up the foodie alley. "The Year of Eating Dangerously" by Tom Parker Bowles follows the author around the world in search of culinary adventure. This book is a great read for the worldly foodie seeking a literary tour of culinary travels (my favorite activity). 

In addition to the far off lands and exotic, amazing foods he discovered, Bowles in fact included a lot of insightful commentary in this British publication. He discusses the manner in which we consume food, the misconceptions the Western world holds about cultural culinary endeavors around the world, and the global supply chain and mass food production cycle that damages not only the small, local producers, but the consumer as well. 

The latter point holds especially true as the United States experiences a scare of salmonella in the tomato supply. Now, there are certainly no guarantees that consumers will not fall ill after consuming locally grown tomatoes, but there is a fairly good chance that the local producer in any given region of the country (small production = attention to quality + detail) has grown their produce organically, therefore lowering chances of disease and contamination. If more communities had access (and interest) in food products cultivated within a 100 mile radius, the cost of produce would decrease (smaller distance to travel, less fuel used) and the risk of contamination and disease would diminish greatly. And, to top it all off, local food just tastes better. Imagine the difference in the taste of an enormous Granny Smith apple grown in Chile and flown/trucked in to California (the kind sold in your local supermarket) versus the a small, organic Gravensteen apple grown in a family orchard in the Russian River Valley and sold at a farmer's market in San Francisco. If you have never experienced this with any type of produce or food product -- this applies to meats and dairy products as well -- search out the seasonal, local produce in your area. You will no be disappointed. 

Check out "The Year of Eating Dangerously" if you are a locavorian foodie like me. If nothing else, it's a good read with a humorous tone. 

Your Daily Yum Yum: Gen Kai

I have been spending a few weeks with my folks in Dana Point, CA (in the infamous Orange County) and exploring the culinary scene that is South Orange County. 

I discovered Gen Kai in Dana Point one summer during college (pre-foodie years) and made it a habit to get there often. The fish was as fresh as I could find, the chefs were legitimately Japanese, the yellowtail would literally melt in my mouth. Maybe I was a foodie-in-training... One particular item -- this was before I discovered that I could not eat all that I wanted without working out -- was the Stuffed Tomato. A dollop of scallops and crabmeat (the real stuff) mixed with Japanese mayo, wrapped in two lovely pieces of Toro sushi, topped with a little green scallion. Truly, this is a yum-yum if you've ever seen one. 

I always try to sit at the bar when eating sushi. One, there are always a little array of yum-yums that land in front of you, whether octopus salad, marinated cucumbers or miso soup. Two, you have the opportunity to talk to your sushi chef directly and inquire about the best fish in their cooler and the tastiest specials of the day. That, and when you visit a spot often enough, you can develop a rapport with your sushi chef who will remember the things you like and make the special items you crave.  

Upon return to the OC, Gen Kai was naturally a first request to my father's offer to take me to lunch (In-N-Out was next; more on that later). I then discovered the best kept lunch secret in Orange County: the Happy Meal. 

No, this is not your mushy and tasteless fast food kiddie combo from the local McD's. The Happy Meal at Gen Kai is a lovely adult lunch treat: portions of salmon, yellowtail, and tuna sashimi; a piece each of shrimp, tuna and yellowtail sushi; a large helping of California rolls; miso soup; and green tea. All this at the sushi bar for $10 at lunch. I am still in shock.   

The Daily Yum Yum

The Daily Yum-Yum was created as an outlet for foodie experiences. I caught the foodie bug a few years back during my tenure at Commander's Palace, a beautiful grande-dame restaurant in New Orleans. Every day was an educational foray into the exciting world of food and wine. Whether I was typing out recipes for the newest cookbook, partaking in wine tastings for special events, or simply reading up on what I knew would be my industry of choice, there was new information to be absorbed every day. I lapped it up.

My good friend Tory McPhail encouraged my learning, and before long, I was a full blown foodie. I would like to dedicate this blog to Tory and our friend Chris Barbato, who would always describe something little and delicious in a dish or a recipe as a "yum yum," thus inspiring the title of this blog. Thank you, guys, for always encouraging me and allowing me to ask the questions.