A Saturday in New Orleans, Part II: Galatoire's

I descended upon my mother’s brunch party at Galatoire’s (209 Bourbon Street, New Orleans LA 70130, 504.525.2021) after a rambling brunch of my own. For New Orleans and Louisiana locals, few restaurants conjure up the memories from and reaction to a mention of a grand old restaurant. Galatoire’s has been a staple in that town for well over 100 years, and for good reason.

The cuisine is classic New Orleans, the wine list and cocktails flow like water, and a Friday lunch crowd is about the most fun you are going to get in this life. All of New Orleans seems to turn out for this weekly occasion. Young and old, professional and retired, ladies and gentlemen -- you will find just about anyone in that dining room.

The main room is simple and old-world, with simple tiled floors and classic framed mirrors on the walls. Coat hooks line the room along each mirror frame, just in case the gentleman gets a little warm after his Sazerac. Ah yes -- coats are required for gentleman. At dinner and at lunch. Gotta love the old-world charm of this city. 

Our server that day is, like always, Harold. Harold has been a server at Galatoire’s for several decades now -- since the 60s. He has been my parents’, grandparents’ and extended families server for nearly 50 years. That’s just how magical Galatoire’s can be: generations of people come back year after year, requesting the same family server who remembers your Aunt Christine when she was a young girl, and remembers that you like a little extra cloves in your Cafe Brulot. 

By the time I got to them, the entrees had been cleared and spirits were high. I joined at the table my mother and three of her siblings. This bunch knows how to have fun -- Cafe Brulot was on its way! Harold brought over the concoction, and I found a great recipe with great backstory from Chef John Folse in case you want to make this cocktail at home. Yum yum!

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PREP TIME:15 Minutes
SERVES: 6-8

COMMENT:
In New Orleans, Cafe Brulot is often served. Brulot in French means spicy or burned with sugar. The recipe for this famous blending of dark roasted Creole coffee with cognac or brandy and vermouth, spiced with cinnamon and orange peel is attributed to Dominique Youx, top lieutenant to the pirate, Jean Lafitte.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 lemon

• 1 orange

• 6 whole cloves

• 2 small cinnamon sticks

• 1 1/2 ounces triple sec

• 1 ounce brandy

• 1 1/2 cups cafe noir

METHOD:
Every household in early New Orleans had its brulot bowl on the buffet. A brulot bowl is any silver or copper bowl that can be heated with sterno or candle flames from the bottom. Over your brulot bowl, peel lemon in one continuous motion so that the peel is a long spiral. Any juice from the lemon should fall directly into the bowl. Peel orange in the same fashion. Once peeled, insert cloves into the orange and lemon peels at one inch intervals. Into the brulot bowl, place cinnamon stick, triple sec and brandy. Place a sterno or candle under the bowl and bring the liquid to a slight simmer, stirring constantly. Once the liquor is simmering, carefully ignite using a kitchen match. A ribbon of golden blue flame may be achieved by ladling the liquors into the air above the bowl. While the liquor is flaming, hold the lemon and orange peels in the heat to "cook out" the flavor. Slowly add hot coffee, pouring around the edges of the bowl so that the sizzling sound may be heard. Continue stirring until flame dies out. Squeeze a small amount of orange and lemon juice into the bowl to naturally sweeten the coffee. Ladle hot brulot into hot demi-tasse cups.

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http://www.jfolse.com/recipes/beverages/bev09.htm 

The spicy taste combined with intense aromatics and a bit of liqueur in that hot coffee make your senses go wild. 

Just as the Brulot based was sipped dry and the check was payed, good old Mother Nature descended upon New Orleans and we found it to be rather wet and stormy outside. So what do we do? Order another round, of course!

B&B for my mother and siblings, champagne for me (gotta keep with routine, you know? We reminisced about great food memories and great family stories, then mused over the future and current politics. All in all, a very stimulating hour or so. And look at that, the sun came out! Time to move along, best to take a stroll around the Quarter before getting into much more trouble, right?

Oh, the places we’ll go...

A Saturday in New Orleans, Part I: Dante's Kitchen

I had agreed (in a less than ideal state) to meet a few friends at Dante’s Kitchen (736 Dante Street, New Orleans LA 70118, 504.861.3121) this past Saturday morning for a little hair-of-the-dog brunch. Upon arriving at 11:30 a.m., I was pleased to discover that this was a shades meal: every person at the table had sunglasses on. Indoors.

To allow my body to slowly recover, I ordered a mimosa -- this is New Orleans after all. Our server informed me that the mimosa special of the day (!) was watermelon. Yum yum yum yum yum. 

My concoction arrived in a bright pink fashion: textured, but no yucky pulp to constrict the flow of champagne. The liquid was refreshing in every sense of the word: not too sweet and just enough bubbles. I was in brunch heaven!!

The table was composed of a lovely group of New Orleans friends intent on keeping the previous nights’ festivities rolling. Crimrose bloody marys packed with little snacks and screwdrivers that packed a punch crowded our table of friends. 

After a quick scan of the menu -- roasted duck hash cake, bread pudding french toast, pancakes, griddle, duck debris & poached eggs, i.e. foodie paradise! -- I settled on a sensible veggie omelet. But this is no egg white and cheddar cheese dish. Chef Eman’s version of this “light” classic was anything but: Gruyere cheese, slow-roasted Creole tomatoes, shiitake mushrooms and a dainty side of fruit to ease the guilt. Ha!

I happily sipped on watermelon mimosa #2 as I nibbled on my breakfast delight, unaware of the glorious foodie day (and night) ahead of me...

Loa, New Orleans

I’ve always been fond of Loa in New Orleans. The hotel bar for the smashing International House Hotel, they have always taken particular pride in their cocktails and wine selection.

I met my friend Josh in the bar for a cocktail and came upon a rosé that looked like it had panache. Hendry Rosé, I believe it was an 06. If you happen to come across this wine, take the time to try it. Perfect for summer, it has a strawberry and cherry bouquet and has a super smooth finish that makes sipping a pleasure.   

Your Daily Yum Yum: Quimet y Quimet

I recently went on a very quick jaunt to Barcelona, Spain with a group of great friends. Mary, Helena, Rita and I spent 4 days relaxing, eating, cocktailing, and soaking up all the wonderful offerings of this Spanish Mediterranean city. 

Having had a little notice of this trip (it served as Helena’s 30th birthday party), I promptly set out to learn as much as possible about the city and its culinary prowess. Imagine my delight upon discovering that Barcelona claimed some of the best tapas in Spain. I am not surprised by this claim; the city sits at the edge of the Western Mediterranean and has thousands of years of history to draw upon. 

Barcelona research started with a review through my collection of back-dated Food + Wine magazines. I love Food + Wine for this reason; so many articles and little tidbits covering such a wide array of topics and fascinating, expert advice for lands yet unvisited. 

I quickly had my heart set on finding Quimet y Quimet, a tiny tapas bar in a hillside neighborhood in Barcelona best reached by taxi. I excitedly piled the girls into a little taxi (everything is smaller in Europe -- I love it) and set off towards adventure. 

From the Hotel Majestic in the heart of Barcelona, we arrived at Quimet y Quimet quickly. A tiny shop in a working class neighborhood, locals lined the walls and the sidewalk outside, engrossed in rapid conversations in espanol, sipping cava, a yummie Spanish sparkling wine. 

The shop walls were lined with Spanish wines and ales, preserved and pickled delicacies (my favorite white anchovy was not lonely here), oils and vinegars -- it was a foodie mecca! To my delight, we settled into a standing table just next to the bar, where shiny red peppers, rich manchego cheeses, spicy sausages and toasted breads sat ready for my enjoyment. 

A kindly older gentleman was ponied up at the bar next to us, enjoying his cava and chatting with the staff. He was clearly a local and a regular to Quimet y Quimet, and my first thought was, jackpot! Especially in non-English speaking countries, this type of patron can become your best friend during the meal. He can offer off-the-menu suggestions that you could have never known about and pick out an obscure wine or ale to wash down the meal if you offer a smile and friendly conversation. 

This gentleman did not speak English, but my limited Spanish sufficed to communicate all my wants and desires from Quimet y Quimet. He ordered a lovely array for the four American girls in the shop that day, all kinds of cured meats, cheeses, vegetables, pate, a basket of breads, and cava all around.

If you have the opportunity to visit the lovely city of Barcelona, I recommend seeking out Quimet y Quimet. It may be a little off the beaten track, and you may have to try foods outside your comfort zone, but that’s the life of a foodie, right?

Cheers,

Josie